Structure of Sri Arunachaleswarar Temple - A Historical Perspective
Sri Arunachaleswarar Temple at Tiruvannamalai is one of the most ancient
Temples of Lord Siva in Tamil Nadu. Many ancient rulers of South India
have contributed to the development of this Temple. The Pallavas, the
Cholas, the Pandiyas, the Kadavarayas, the Banas, the Hoysalas, the
Rayas of Vijayanagar, and the Nayaks of Thanjavur have altered, extended
and developed the vast Temple complex for nearly a thousand years. The
500 inscriptions of Tiruvannamalai clearly bring out the history of the
construction and development of the mighty structure of the Temple.
The Pallava Architecture
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Sri Arunachaleswarar Temple originated with the Central Shrine. The
extensions to it and around it were constructed as time passed. The
absence of Pallava inscriptions in this Temple is conspicuous and on
that account some believe that the Cholas built the first stone
structure over the Lingam. An examination of the frieze around the
Central Shrine reveals the so-called Kudu, a floral design shaped like a
spur, or a tongued horse shoe around a human face, shows that it is
Pallava Architecture. In Chola architecture the human face in the Kudu
is omitted. With this information M. Anant Narayan Rao maintains that
the Central Shrine was built by the Pallavas, perhaps in 600 A. D. thus
the time taken for the growth of the Temple to its present dimensions is
about 900 years.
The History of the Prakarams
The innermost shrine of Sri Arunachaleswarar Temple opens to the east
and accommodates the principal deity of Lord Shiva. The courtyards or
prakarams are counted, starting from the centre. In Tiruvannamalai,
there are said to be seven of them; five were constructed in the course
of the nine centuries of extensions and alterations, the sixth is
represented by the four "Chariot Streets" around the Temple and the
seventh by the road surrounding the hill. The first prakaram which
houses the Sanctum Sanctorum was built in the 9th and 10th centuries.
The second prakaram was constructed during the 12th century. The third
prakaram was expanded in the 13th century and the fourth prakaram was
completed in the 14th century. The fifth prakaram was erected in the
16th century and completed in the 17th century. Thus the actual
construction and expansion of the Temple complex took nearly nine
hundred years for the present dimensions of the Temple.
The Dravidan Art
The building is of the Dravidian Art in stone which is indigenous. This
art seems to have originated with the Pallavas in the 6th century. A.D.,
being a regular transition from wood to stone. The Dravidian style of
architecture of Temples is characterised by a pyramidal tower (or
gopuram) over the central shrine with large gopurams over the entrance
gateways. The large and closely jointed blocks of stones of the edifice,
with no mortar intervening, is another feature. Sri Arunachaleswarar
Temple is a notable specimen of Chola art and architecture further
beautified by the Hoysala art and sculpture. Important renovation work
was done in the sanctum sanctorum by Aditya-Chola in 750 A.D. and
Parantaka Chola - in the 10th A.D.
The General Features
The Temple is situated in an area of 25 acres with a sylvan backdrop of
the Holy Arunai Mountain in the west. The Temple faces east and has four
stately towers on all four sides and four high stone walls just like
the rampart walls of a fort. The walls are 30 feet high. The walls in
the east and west are 700 feet long. The southern wall is 1478 feet and
the northern wall is 1590 feet long. Statues of unknown chieftains are
found in the outer precincts of the Temple. There are two tanks and 56
courtyards in the Temple.
The Nine Gopurams
The Temple has nine towers, four in the outer walls, each in every
direction. It has nine vimanas with beautiful architecture. There are
three miniature towers of 70 feet height which are called "Kettai
Gopurams" connecting the inner walls. Three towers are in the eastern
side of the Temple with two towers in each direction of South, West and
North. Rajagopuram, Vallala Maharaj Gopuram, and Kiligopuram are in the
eastern side of the Temple. The southern tower is called Thirumanjana
Gopuram. The western tower is named Peygopuram, which was originally
Peyalvar Gopuram. The northern tower is called Ammani Amman Gopuram.
These magnificent impressive towers are among the finest in Tamil Nadu
and can be compared with those of Chidambaram, Srirangam, Jambukeswaram,
Madurai and Rameswaram.
Rajagopuram
The eastern tower is called Rajagopuram which is the highest of all nine
towers. It is 217 feet high. It has eleven storeys with a width of 135
feet by 98 feet at the base. The Tanjore Big Temple built by the Chola
monarch Raja Raja Chola is 216 feet high. Krishnadevarayar, the King of
Vijayanagara, who had built the Rajagopuram, intended it to be at least
one foot higher than the Big Tower of the Tanjore Temple. The building
of the Rajagopuram was started by Krishnadevarayar in 1516 A.D. and
completed by the King of Tanjore, Sevappa Naicken in 1590. This tower
provides the main entrance to the Temple.
Ammani Amman Gopuram
The northern Ammani Amman Gopuram is 171 feet in height and it has nine
storeys. It was built by Ammani Amman who was a monk. Ammani Amman found
the previous tower in the northern side of the Temple unfinished and it
was she that completed the building of the Gopuram with strenuous
efforts. She was trained in yogic practices during her life and had a
remarkable power of knowing the exact amount of money a person
possessed - and she was able to get a portion of that wealth from such
people by guesses how much they had. These amounts Ammani Amman used in
order to construct the northern tower - the Ammani Amman Tower. There is a
mutt in her name in northern Orravadai street with a statue of her
installed nearby.
Thirumanjana Gopuram
The Southern outer tower is called Thirumanjana Gopuram. Thirumanjana
means holy water for the bath of an idol. Every day in the morning
before opening the gate of the Temple, holy water is brought through the
Southern Tower and sprinkled near the Flag Post. Hence this tower is
called Thirumanjana Gopuram. This tower has nine storeys and is 157 feet
in height. The base of all four towers of the outer court are generally
ascribed to Krishnadevaraya. The tower might have been completed by
later Nayak rulers.
Peygopuram
The tower in the west is called Peygopuram which is merely an
aberration - as its name erroneously indicates . . . there is neither
ghost (pei) nor devil in it. It was actually Mel Gopuram (i.e. Western
Tower). The tower was also called Periyagopuram (Big Tower) before the
other towers of the Temple were built. But as years passed, this name
got corrupted into Peygopuram. According to an inscription dated 1388
A.D., the base of the tower was constructed by King Ballala III and the
spire was presumably built by King Krishnadevaraya. The height of the
seven-storey Tower is 144 feet.
The Sivaganaga Theertham
To the south of the Kambathu Illaiyanar Temple there is the sacred tank called
Sivagangai Theertham. Sivangagai is the name of a river in Kailayam, the
abode of Lord Siva. The Theertham is named after the river. There is
also a Theertham called Sivagangai in Chidambaram. It has stone steps
and Thirumalapathi Mandapam on all four sides. This Theertham is used
for sacred ablutions of the Temple deities. The Theertham (with steps
all round) presents a panoramic view. Inscriptions reveal that water to
this (Theertham) was provided by digging a canal called Thirumalai Amman
Devi Samduram. There is a verse which proclaims that Sevappa Naickan
the ruler of Tanjore, built a tower and dug a tank in 1572 A.D.
The Thousand Pillared Mandapam
The Thousand Pillared Hall in the fifth prakaram was built by
Krishnadevaraya. This Thousand Pillared Hall has exactly 1000 pillars.
The pillars are carved with sculptures of the Nayak period and some
divine images of sages. Vishnu's incarnations too find a place with
floral designs. It was engraved with figures and the roof with numerous
stone Nandis. The basement of this Mandapam is adorned with the designs
of girls playing kolattam, warriors, sports. etc. This Mandapam is used
for the Deities to be seated and for ablutions and worship on Ani
Thirumanjanam and the day of Thiruvathirai.
A copper plate of sagam 1435 reveals that the land site of 275 feet east
west and 295 feet north south was sold to Krishnadevaraya for 500
sovereigns of gold by the members of a great mutt in Tiruvannamalai.
There is the Patala Shrine in the underground chamber of the thousand
pillared Mandapam. This type of Thousand pillared Mandapam has also been
built in the Temple of Thirvanaikaval, Thirunelveli, Thiruvarur,
Srirangam and Madurai.
The Vallala Magaraja Gopuram
The Vallala Magaraja Gopuram was built by the Hoyala King Ballala, who
was exceedingly active in Tiruvannamalai during 1318 A.D., and 1343 A.D.
This tower was started in 1328 A.D., and completed in 1331 A.D. by King
Vallala. His statue of 2½ feet has been installed in the tower itself
hence this tower is called Veera Vaiboga Vallala Maharaja Gopuram.
Brahma Theertham Tank
This holy Brahma Theertham is exactly to the south of Puravimandapam in
the south east side of the Fourth prakaram. On the northern bank of the
Tank and near the Puravimandaam there is the Theerthavari Mandapam which
has four pillars. In 1230 A.D. the Brahma Theertham Tank was dug by
King Venu Udaiyar (son of Kadva King Kopperunsingam). This tank was
first called Perumal Thadakam (pool). On the banks of the pool he grew a
flower garden. To the north of this holy tank the King also erected the
Theerthavari Mandapam. The form of his father (Kopperunsingam) which is
facing north, has been carved into one of the pillars of Purvavi
Mandapam.
The Kili Gopuram
The Kili Gopuram means parrot tower. In a niche in that tower a mortar
image of a parrot can be seen. It is believed that resting on the
Gopuram in the form of a parrot is Arunagirinathar-who composed his
famous Kandar Arunbhutti as well as other famous poems. The Kili Gopuram
was built by Bhaskaramoorthy whose statue along with his wife are still
found in the tower. This Tower belongs to the 11th century. In a niche
at the left side of Kili Gopuram, the images of Veera Rajendira Cholan
and his ministers are found. This King ruled in 1063 A.D. All idols are
taken from the Temple for procession only through the tower gate of this
Gopuram.
The Katchi Mandapam
On entering into the Third Prakaram one can see the spectacular Temple
of Annamalaiyar and the Aruna Linga Mountain. After crossing the
entrance of the Kili Gopuram. One will first step into a vast sixteen
pillared Mandapam. This Mandapam is called Katchi Mandapam because the
Panchamurthis give darshan on the day of Karthigai Deepam.
Arthanareeswara too gives darshan from this place. Devotees watch the
Holy Beacon from this Mandapam on Deepam day. Hence this is also called
Deepa Tharisana Mandapam. This Mandapam was built by Mankaiyakarsi a
devote in 1202 A.D. Hence it was originally named as the Manakaiyakarasi
Mandapam. From this place one can see the flagpole and a small Nandi in
front of Arunachaleswarar Temple.
Sri Sambanda Vinayagar Shrine
Sambathar Vinayagar Shrine is located in the area to the south of the
Flagstaff and Balipeedam. Sambanda Vinayagar looks crimson smeared with
saffron. Hence it is called Sennira Vinayagar (Red Vinayagar). The idol
which is very large is considered to be one of the biggest images of
Ganapathi in Tamil Nadu. This huge Vinayagar is in sitting pose. It is
told that Vinayagar killed a demon and smeared his body with the demon's
blood - hence he appears red. An inscription from 1262 (1340 A.D.) of the
region of Veera Vallala Deva is found here. From this epigraphy we
learn that one Sambandan lived in Tiruvannamalai and was President of a
popular Mutt. It was he that built the shrine for Vinayagar; hence it is
called Sambandan Vinayagar. In the south west corner of the second
Prakaram, there is Sthala Vinayagar. It was erected by Sembiyan Mahadevi
the Queen of Kandaraitha Chola.
The Temple of Unnamulaiyamman
The Temple of Unnamalaiyamman has been erected in the northwest corner
of the third Prakaram. This is a separate structure in the sacred
complex of Sri Arunachaleswarar Temple. The Amman Temple is situated on
the south. The wall of the Amman Temple is about 10 feet high. The
emblem of Hoysala, (the Kandaperanda Bird) is found and nearby there is
also a statue of a standing man with worshipping hands. The standing man
is identified as Ballala. Hence it is presumed that the outer walls
might have been built by the Hoysala King. The architecture of the
Sanctum Sanctorum and the sculpture found there belongs to the eleventh
century. The stones containing inscriptions have been altered during the
renovation work of the Temple. We learn from inscriptions of 1180 A.D.
during the region of the Chola King Kulothunga III, that there was a
Shrine to the Goddess, called Thirukkalakotam. But some scholars have
come to the conclusion that Kulothunga I, a pious devotee of Lord Shiva
might have built the Temple. The Navagraha Shrine, the Kodemara
Mandapam, the Astalakshmi Mandapam and the Sanctum Sanctorum are
important structures of the Unnamalaiyamman Temple.
Gilding of the Temple
During the thirty-fifth year of the reign of Kulothunga III, i.e. 1216
there was a powerful Banachief bearing the name of Ponparapinan
Magadesan (alias Vanakovaraiyan). He is known to have gilded the central
shrine of the Arunachaleswarar Temple and to have given three villages
to the Temple, and donated 96 cows and 3 bulls for the purpose of
burning three perpetual lamps (Nanda Villakku) to the God
Thiruvannamalai. Udaiya Nayanar who is called "Ponparapinan", was
responsible for gilding the vimana of Tiruvannamalai Temple.
Conclusion
Sri Arunachaleswarar Temple with its massive walls of thirty feet in
height, looks like a fortified citadel of a great emperor. It has nine
towers, fifty-six courtyards, numerous Shrines and countless idols, made
of both metals and stone. There are two main holy tanks and five broad
prakarams in the Temple. It contains seven Mandapams; from a small four
pillared Vasantha Mandapam in the third prakaram to the thousand
Pillared Mandapam in the fifth prakaram. There are beautiful images,
sculptures, pillars, drawings and pictures in the Temple. In the Temple
of Tiruvannamalai (as Skandananda states) sculptures adoring the various
shrines, towers and Mandapams, are of the purest Dravidian style and
are consequently of great beauty.
[By: A. Sakthivel]
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