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Kenopanishad and Tiruvannamalai

Tiruvannamalai is one of the most sacred shrines in Tamil Nadu. It is considered superior to all the other eminent shrines. While Tiru Arur confers salvation or mukti to one who is born there, Kasi confers salvation to one who dies there, and Chidambaram to one who worships there, Tiruvannamalai confers salvation to one who merely thinks of it. No wonder this shrine is most important, as it points out the easiest way to salvation.

The tradition of Tiruvannamalai is that the Supreme Power appeared there a long time ago to remove the ignorance and ego of Brahma and Vishnu, the two great divine powers, when they quarrelled among themselves as to who was superior. This story has its origin in the Kenopanishad where we find it in another form.

Kenopanishad is the second of the ten principal Upanishads commented upon by Sankara and now studied by all students of Indian philosophy. Its importance is such that Sankara is said to have written two bhashyas on it. It consists of four sections. The first two sections define the idea of Brahman as the one Supreme Power and show its distinction from the created world. The third section deals with a story where Brahman appeared before the devas in the form of a blazing light to remove their ignorance and ego when they boasted that their victory over the asuras was due to their own might. This is a kind of allegory where the senses are depicted as the devas. The fourth section sums up the definition and the story, and sets forth ways of meditating on the Brahman. The story is as follows:

The fight of the gods against the asuras was made by Brahman. When the battle was won, the gods thought that to them went the glory of the victory. Before them appeared Brahman in the form of a Light. The devas did not know Him. They asked one another what it was and whether it was worthy of adoration. They called Agni, Jatavedas the All-knower, and asked him to go and ascertain what the Light was. So Agni ran up to it. On seeing him, the Light asked who he was and what was his power. Agni replied that he was Agni and that he could burn anything on earth. The Light then placed a bit of straw before Agni and said, "Burn this". With all his might, Agni was not able to burn it. So he returned to the devas crestfallen and said that he could not ascertain the nature of the Light. Then the devas deputed Vayu the God of wind. When he approached the Light and said that he could blow off anything on earth, the Light placed before him a bit of straw as before and asked him to blow it off. With all his might Vayu could not even move it. When he returned to the devas and reported his failure, they deputed Indra. Indra the mightiest of the gods went but the Light vanished when he approached it. Instead, he met there a celestial lady, most beautiful, Uma the daughter of the snowy mountains, Himavan. He asked her what it was. She told him that it was Brahman the Supreme who gave them all their glory. Through Her Indra first came to know the Brahman.

The story is very remarkable as forming part of an important Upanishad. It is also particularly significant for the Saivas in this that it refers to Uma the daughter of Himavan. In the Saiva religion, Uma is the consort of Siva, His inseparable Sakti, representing His Grace; Indra learns here about the Supreme only through His Grace, Uma.

The important legend of Tiruvannamalai has the same story. In Saiva religious lore, five ancient shrines are held to denote the five elements. Tiru Arur is the Prithvi Sthala, dedicated to earth; Tiru Anaikka is the Appu Sthala, water; Tiruvannamalai the Agni Sthala, fire; Tiruk-Kalatti is the Vayu Sthala, air; and Chidambaram is the Akasa Sthala, subtle ether. There is a relevance in calling Tiruvannamalai the Agni sthala. Siva enshrined here is the Jothir Lingam. Annamalai is also known as Arunachala, the hill of fire (Aruna - red, achala - hill). The Tamil name also is significant. Anna-malai means the hill (the peak of which could not be reached. The consort of Siva here is known as Unnamulai; Jnansambandha mentions Her name in his devaram song of this place. A beautiful legend, probably derived from the Kenopanishad legend, will explain the name Arunachalam.

In ages gone by, Brahma the Creator and Vishnu the Preserver disputed between themselves as to who was greater and who was Supreme. This dispute was a prolonged one and so Lord Siva decided to teach them the truth. He appeared before them in the form of a column of fire, an effulgent Light. When the two saw It, they referred their quarrel to Him. He told them that he could discover the crown of the Light or Its foot first might be considered as the superior. Accordingly Brahma took the form of a swan and flew up in an attempt to find the crown of the Light, while Vishnu took the form of a boar (Varaha) and began to dig down to find the foot of the Light. Neither succeeded. Then light dawned upon them that the Light was superior to both of them. This is the significance of Arunachala. The Karttikai festival is celebrated to bring out this great truth that the Supreme God is far beyond the ken of the Creator and the Preserver. Brahma and Vishnu thereupon prayed to the column of Light, Siva, to be ever present in the place in the form of a lingam. Siva agreed. The hill of Tiruvannamalai is that linga, the Sthavara Linga.

Karttikai is the name of both a month and nakshatra in the Tamil calendar. The month corresponds to November - December and the nakshatra is Pleiades according to the Western reckoning. Any number of interesting legends have grown round this Karttikai Festival. The constellation Karttikai appears as a group of six stars in the firmament, in the shape of a pendant from the ear. The stars are considered in Indian mythology as the six celestial nymphs who reared the six-faced Muruha in infancy in the Saravana tank. Muruha is consequently called Kartikeya, one brought up the Krittika nymphs. Usually the annual Karttikai Festival is celebrated in Tamil Nadu when the moon is in conjunction with the asterism karttikai. This is specially important in Tiruvannamalai for various reasons.

The Tiruvannamalai Temple is located at the foot of a hill, over 2,500 feet in height. This hill itself is considered by geologists to be of igneous rock which means that it is related to fire; probably the rock was more lustrous in the very remote past and hence the appropriateness of the Jothir Linga concept to this place. The temple is a very large one, occupying an area of twenty-five acres. It has tall towers on all the four outer walls but the one over the main eastern gateway is the tallest, reaching a height of 217 feet in eleven tiers.

This legend of Siva appearing before Brahma and Vishnu as a column of light is today celebrated not only in this place but in all the Siva temples in Tamil Nadu on the karttikai day. The appearance of the Light is believed to have taken place on this day. It is celebrated everywhere as the dipam festival (dipam-lamp). A column of fire is created in front of each temple and the utsava murti of the local shrine is taken out in procession and He gives a darshan to His devotees after the fire is lit. Generally this takes place immediately after dusk. People fast for the whole day and take their food only after this jothi darshan.

In memory of this Light, the whole temple is illuminated with thousands of lamps, big and small, and every home also is illuminated in the evening with hundreds of lamps. It is indeed a grand sight to see the temple tower lights shedding their twinkling light throughout the darkness so the whole night. A special offering is made to Siva on this day, consisting of fried or puffed rice mixed with treacle.

In the city of Tiruvannamalai, the same procedure is adopted for the festival even today. Hundreds of thousands of bhaktas and pilgrims gather in the outer courtyards of the temple from early afternoon waiting for the appropriate time in the evening when the symbolic fire will be lit. Sri Arunachaleswarar is taken in a procession around the courtyard. At the appointed time (usually about 6 p.m.) the fire on the hill in the background is lit. This fire is made of vast quantities of camphor supported by more than a hundred litres of ghee. The fire continues to burn for the whole of the night and is visible even at a distance of eight miles. It continues to burn for several days and nights following. The moment the fire is lit on the hill a dipa-aradhana (waving of camphor lamp) is made to Sri Arunachaleswarar. The assembled bhaktas have a simultaneous darshan of the Lord in the temple as also of the column of Light on the hill. There is a great surge of devotional fervour when the sea of humanity sounds with one voice "Annamalaik-karohara" (hail, Hara, Lord of Annamalai) and the sound lingers for a long time, echoing from one way to the other and back, and even going as far back as the hill and resounding. Caste, class, creed, age and sex are all forgotten and everyone seems to have a feeling that he is enveloped in the grace of Lord Arunachaleswarar. The ordeal of fasting and pilgrimage to the temple by several lakhs of people has now reached its culmination and everyone now departs for his home after receiving His prasadam in the form of sacred ash.

The same ritual is gone through in every temple. In the place of the huge light on the hill of Tiruvannamalai each temple creates a sokkappanai in front of the shrine, some distance away from it. This is mostly made of combustible materials such as palmyrah leaves. Lighting of this sokkappanai and karpura-aradhana to the deity in procession are done simultaneously and this marks the end of the Karttikai festival.

The lighting of a large number of lamps, both in the temples and in the devotee's homes on the Karttikai day has been a very ancient observance. Saint Jnanasambandhar refers to this in one of this songs. In the moving song sung by him at Mayilappur in order to bring back to life the young maid Pumpavai from her ashes, he addresses her and asks: "Will you go away from this work without witnessing this festival?" The first verse refers to the general feeding of Siva-ganas as a festival ritual. The second refers to an Onam festival in the month of Ayppasi. The third verse speaks of the Karttikai Festival. He asks: "Will though go away, Pumpavai, without witnessing the festival of lamps lit by young damsels on the ancient Karttikai day sacred to the Lord of Kapalisvara?"

The image of Lingodbhava, installed at the goshta (niche) just behind the Mula linga on the outer side of the garbhagriha in all the Siva temples is symbolic of the manifestation of the Jothi in Tiruvannamalai.

[By M. Arunachalam]